Ambrosia Services

BEAUTY BY A THREADA CERTIFIED AESTHETICIAN OFFERS ANOTHER TIME-TESTED WAY TO ERADICATE UNWANTED FACIAL HAIR

Special to The Miami Herald

BY EILEEN SOLER

Nisha Mohammad twists unwanted hair in a strand of white cotton thread and plucks it from the root as smoothly as James Bond zaps bad guys.

Calm and cool, dressed in a white jacket at Maria Hairstyles in Miramar, the certified aesthetician maneuvers the thread using her mouth and hands to gracefully shape eyebrows, eradicate unwanted hair from upper lips, chins, foreheads and sideburns and leave clients glowing.

''There is a little sting, but I love it,'' said Kimberly Christian of Cooper City, admiring her freshly plucked pair of perfectly shaped brows. ``I'm a regular customer now.''

Called ''threading,'' the hair removal technique rooted in ancient Egypt is the latest beauty import from the East and is gaining popularity over common tweezing, waxing or chemical depilatories that often cause irritation.

Mohammad said women and girls of all ages with all types of skin suffer no side effects from threading because it is totally natural. It also lasts about two weeks longer than other methods.

''The result is cleaner, longer lasting, and very beautiful. No wax, no creams, just 100 percent cotton thread. Everyone who has it done comes back,'' Mohammad said.

Mohammad, of Miramar, said threading is a beauty tradition passed down generation to generation among women in Middle Eastern and South Asian nations, especially her native Pakistan and neighboring India.

Only a handful of Broward and Miami-Dade beauty salons offer the service.

Owner Maria Smith, who opened the full-service salon at 14455 Miramar Pkwy. in February, said she has been in the beauty business for nearly four decades but only learned about threading when Mohammad called to offer her service, called Threading by Nisha.

''Now it's bringing in new customers every day,'' Smith said.

But don't blink. Threading removes hair lightning-quick at a rate of 15 to 20 hairs per second. In fact, Mohammad took care of five clients in 40 minutes on a recent morning, including her 12-year-old daughter, Yamna, whose first treatment transformed one bushy unibrow into two girlish brows.

''It's not painful at all, and I feel so much prettier,'' Yamna said.

Known as khite in Arabic and fatlah in Egyptian, the practice winds multiple hairs at one time and plucks them simultaneously from deep under the skin. Meanwhile, it also lifts and removes dead skin.

Mohammad said the treatment does not remove hair permanently, but over time some hair will not grow back and most hair returns thinner and is a lighter shade.

Costs include $12 for first-time eyebrow shaping, $10 for a brow cleanup, $6 for the upper lip, $6 for chin, and $30 for a full face.

''Sensitive skin, teenage skin, older skin, leathery or smooth -- it doesn't matter,'' Mohammad said. ``There is no redness, bumps or marks with threading, only beautiful, smooth skin.''

For a threading appointment with Mohammad, call 754-204-8080. For Maria Hairstyles, call 954-447-2046.

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posted by Cheryl Levesque @ 3:53 PM 0 comments

Wireless health tech targets baby boomers

Technology moves from treatment to diagnostics

By Steve Ranger

Published: Friday 21 July 2006

A new generation of wireless health systems will monitor healthy people and warn them if they are at risk of becoming sick.

At the moment hospitals are using wireless systems to cut costs by treating patients remotely - for example, treating them in their own homes rather than in the hospital.

But according to a report published by analyst house Wireless Healthcare, this means that existing services only address the needs of patients who are already receiving treatment - focusing on remote care rather than remote diagnostics.

What is missing, the analyst claims, is the intelligence to allow these systems to spot trends automatically, indicating a person may experience health problems in the future.

The analyst argues that with new technologies on the horizon a new 'e-health model' is emerging, where people are intercepted before they enter the healthcare system.

Wireless Healthcare senior analyst Peter Kruger said advances in personalised healthcare - and the growing interest that the baby boomer generation is showing in wireless monitoring devices - will provide opportunities for companies that want to offer services to the "worried well" as well as people considered to be "at risk".

For pictures of some of these remote monitoring technologies click here.

Kruger said in a statement: "These two groups of healthcare consumers tend to be ignored by incumbent healthcare providers."

A number of technologies are being developed that add this intelligence and, since manufacturers are pushing wireless medical devices into the consumer electronics market at the same time, this could lead to a situation where people can be treated before their conditions worsen.

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posted by Cheryl Levesque @ 5:05 PM 0 comments

Ambrosia: Art of Raw Cuisine

Monday July 24, 8:29 am ET
The first of its kind, this elegant new raw-food preparation book combines inspired recipes with exquisite original drawings

TUXEDO PARK, N.Y.,

July 24 /PRNewswire/ -- In Ambrosia (White Crosslet Publishing Co., Publication date: August 23, 2006), Marc Anthony Hatsis celebrates the pure, simple beauty of raw food. Pairing recipes with his own meditative, mandala-inspired drawings, Hatsis gives readers the first raw-food preparation and menu book to offer perfectly combined meals for ultimate digestive health. Including such dishes as blueberry pudding, pineapple soup, avocado savoury, and a variety of salads, Ambrosia promotes the healing benefits and increased energy level of a minimalist, highly conscious way of eating. Arranged seasonally and zodiacally, and including a foreword by renowned cardiologist Aleksey Yurenev, this is a book that presents food as nourishment for both body and soul.

At a time when food is more processed, manipulated, and potentially harmful than ever before, readers and consumers need to be guided toward better food choices. A dedicated and well-informed raw foodist himself, Hatsis offers this guidance. As he explains in his introduction, "Avoiding wrong food choices is essential for well-being. When you embrace raw fruits and vegetables as your exclusive diet, radiant health will appear. A natural diet combined with right thought, speech, and action is the essential way in coming to know yourself."

But Ambrosia is more than just a food preparation book. It is also an artist's monograph, an artist's vision, in which the drawings meld perfectly with the subject matter. Just as a raw-food diet creates a feeling of wholeness, Hatsis's book is a satisfying whole. His mandalas are meticulously rendered sections of fruit - symmetrical and beautifully complete. Ambrosia is a book that will be as at home on the coffee table as it is in the kitchen.

Marc Anthony Hatsis is an artist, author, and publisher. He formed White Crosslet Publishing to bring together his passions for art, books, food, and nature. He was the owner of Moonflower Gallery from 1989 to 1996, has been a commercial real estate developer and is now dedicated to life as an artist and publisher.

For more information on Ambrosia and forthcoming White Crosslet publications or if you would like an advance review copy of Ambrosia, contact Marc Anthony Hatsis at publisher@whitecrosslet.com or (917) 478-4116.

TITLE: AMBROSIA: ART OF RAW CUISINE
BY: MARC ANTHONY HATSIS
PUBLICATION DATE: AUGUST 23, 2006
ISBN 0-9779797-1-7
PRICE: $26.00 (CAN $33.00) PB
112 PAGES
43 B&W ILLUSTRATIONS
CONTACT: MARC ANTHONY HATSIS at publisher@whitecrosslet.com or
(917) 478-4116
COMPANY WEBSITE: http://www.whitecrosslet.com

This release was issued through eReleases(TM). For more information, visit http://www.ereleases.com.

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posted by Cheryl Levesque @ 1:48 PM 0 comments

Natural Beauty Or Not?

POSTED: 4:28 pm PDT July 18, 2006

UPDATED: 9:33 am PDT July 19, 2006

SAN DIEGO -- It's being called the "green movement" in makeup, but a Mother Nature makeover may not be as organic as is seems.

It's one of the cosmetic industry's most-profitable campaigns ever, but critics are wondering if health and environmentally conscious consumers are getting greener makeup.

Most women know exactly what they want in their makeup, and these days what they want is the nearly $5 billion in natural and organic makeup sold in the U.S. last year.

"Organic makeup is becoming more and more popular," makeup artist Doris Lew-Jensen told NBC 7/39.

But is organic makeup really organic? No is the answer NBC 7/39 got from just about every cosmetic professional that was consulted about the question.

"The whole package can't be totally organic," Lew-Jensen said. "It does have to have chemical ingredients in it, because otherwise the makeup wouldn't last as long -- the preservative alone would counteract anything that's organic."

David Bronner, the president of Doctor Bronner's Magic Soaps, an industry gold standard in natural and organic skin care products since 1948, warns buyers to beware of organic claims.
"The only way you can know it is if you have a USDA seal or certified label on a product," said Bronner.

NBC 7/39 could only find a seal of organic authenticity on lip balms.

"It's really hard to find '100 Percent,' because most makeup -- they have to have some type of preservative in there so it doesn't create bacteria in the product," said Janet Little of Henry's Farmer's Market

None of the makeup NBC 7/39 found at natural food stores or online actually claimed to be 100 percent organic; instead, most claim to be a "natural" product.

" 'Natural' can have only 10 percent of the product -- maybe of Vitamin A in it -- and the rest can be synthetic, and they can call it natural," said Little.

A very popular brand of from Europe called Doctor Hauschka Cosmetics firmly stands by its organic claims, saying, "All of our products are organic and biodynamic certified according to strict European standards. We've never had a complaint about the quality or performance of our ingredients."

Biodynamic certification, says the Organic Consumer Association of America, has tougher restrictions than USDA labeling of cosmetic products.

"The essential oils and herbs that may be used in the makeup are taken from organic producers," said dermatologist Nancy Satur
Satur said "organic" can be good.

"Pesticides are not present, and synthetic chemicals are minimized -- in general, that's a good thing," said Satur. "It's a positive thing for the world, for waterways and for our own bodies and complexion."

Still, Satur warned that Mother Nature makeovers can sometimes be less than congenial.
"Poison oak is organic," said Satur. "It's natural, so I think some consumers perhaps mistakenly believe they will never become allergic or irritated by an organic makeup -- but that's not necessarily so."

The Organic Consumer Association told NBC 7/39 that new state guidelines similar to the strict ones that now govern U.S. organic food products will be applied to cosmetics companies in the coming year.

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posted by Cheryl Levesque @ 1:26 PM 0 comments

FDA OKs pearly pigments to color pills

By ANDREW BRIDGES,

Associated Press WriterThu Jul 20, 6:15 PM ET

If you think beauty can't go more than skin deep, swallow this: Health officials on Thursday said drug companies could start gussying up their pills with pigments like those that give cosmetics a pearly sheen.

The pearlescent pigments can be used in any drugs that are swallowed, including pills, tablets and liquids, the Food and Drug Administration said. As a result, drugs may never look the same again.

The pigments can produce sparkly metallic, satiny and shimmery finishes, as well as different hues of red and gold, depending partly on the color of the underlying drug.

The FDA's publication of a final rule approving their use came eight years after EMD Chemicals Inc. of Gibbstown, N.J., first petitioned the agency. The chemical and pigment maker is part of the German drug company Merck KGaA. That company is entirely separate from U.S.-based Merck & Co. Inc.

EMD Chemicals hopes the pharmaceutical companies it supplies will seize on the technology to give their drugs a look that is unique and hard to copy, said Dan Giambattisto, sales and marketing director for Candurin Pigments at EMD Chemicals.

The pigments are made by coating the mineral mica with either titanium dioxide or iron oxide — or both. The FDA approved using the two separate combinations to color contact lenses in 2002.
Similar pigments also are used in makeup, including lipstick, eye shadow and nail polish, as well as in inks and automotive paint.

Titanium dioxide already can be used in drugs. The new rule allows mica to be used to color drugs meant to be swallowed and increases the amount of synthetic iron dioxide allowed in those medicines. The pigments cannot make up more than 3 percent of the weight of a drug, the FDA said.

In the rule, first published on July 22, 2005, the agency said it "concludes that there is no toxic potential when ingested at levels estimated by the agency." The FDA delayed making the rule final until Thursday, after it answered the objections of critics.

Gatewood Organization LLC, a regulatory consulting group in Hazlet, N.J., had questioned whether the pigments would put some drugs off limits to patients who must watch their intake of iron and whether they would affect the shelf life of drugs.

The FDA denied the group's objections, saying it had provided no "factual information" to back up its claims.

EMD Chemicals also is seeking FDA approval to use the pearly pigments in cereals, candies, chewing gum and other foods. In June, the FDA approved the use of titanium dioxide and mica pigments in some foods; the agency continues to review pigments made with synthetic iron oxide.
___

posted by Cheryl Levesque @ 1:39 PM 0 comments

Don't Risk Your Sole For Sake Of Beauty

By KAREN SHIDELER

McClatchy Newspapers

Ahhh, summer, when our toes wiggle free. We show them off in fun flip-flops, sexy sandals, playful platforms and whimsical wedges. Ouch! Just turned an ankle, didn't you? Rubbed a blister on your big toe?

No, no, no, we're not going to say you shouldn't wear those fun summer shoes.

But (you knew that was coming, didn't you?) Naomi Shields, a Wichita, Kan., orthopedic surgeon who specializes in foot and ankle surgery, and Wichita Clinic podiatrist Joe Lickteig say there are some things you should be aware of.

FLIP-FLOPS

Potential hazards:

• Dry, cracked heels because of the exposure to air.

• Lack of support, especially for people with flat feet or other foot problems.

• Injured toes, if something's dropped on them.

• Sunburned feet.

• Increased risk of foot infection in people with diabetes.

Reduce your risks:

• Use sunscreen on the top of your foot.

• Watch for irritation between toes.

• Treat your heels to some extra attention.

• Get flip-flops that fit; don't let toe or heel hang over the edge.

• Look for shoes made of natural materials, such as leather, that have some give.

PLATFORMS

Potential hazards:

• Sprains or broken ankles.

• Extra pressure on the ball of your foot.

• Tightened calf muscles.

• Inflammation from the pressure, particularly under your second toe.

• Can aggravate Morton's neuroma, an enlarged nerve between the third and fourth toes.

Reduce your risks:

• Switch to a lower heel and stretch on a regular basis to keep calf muscles from shortening.

• The thicker, stiffer sole actually can be more comfortable than a flexible shoe if you have arthritis or similar problems -and are careful.

Potential hazards:

• Hmmmm -- they make your feet look bigger?

• Not enough heel support for some people.Reduce your risks:

• Wear the strap around your heel, for more support.WEDGE HEELSPotential hazards:

• The higher the wedge, the greater the chance of sprains or broken ankles.

• Tightened calf muscles.• Extra pressure on the ball of your foot.• Inflammation from the pressure, particularly under your second toe.

• Knee and back pain because the high wedges change your body's mechanical alignment.

Reduce your risks:

• Stretch your calf muscles regularly.

• Change your heel height regularly.

• Select shoes with lower and wider heels when possible.

SPIKE AND STILETTO HEELS

Potential hazards:

• The higher the heel, the greater the risk of sprains and broken ankles.

• Increased pressure on the ball of your foot.

• Changed body mechanics, with more load on your back.

• Inflammation on the ball of your foot.

Reduce your risks:

• Stretch your calf muscles regularly.

• Change your heel height regularly.

• Select shoes with lower and wider heels when possible.

TIPS FOR ANY SHOE

• Look for a style with good support.

• Match the shoe to the activity:

Don't wear high wedge heels on a day when you'll do lots of walking.

• If you're wearing skimpy shoes, don't forget sunscreen for the tops of your feet.

• Don't buy a shoe if it isn't comfortable in the store.

• Do keep feet neat-looking. Trim and polish nails, treat corns and calluses, moisturize.

• If you have flat feet, opt for a well-made sandal with good support, such as those made by Teva or Birkenstock.

• Change shoes regularly to vary where the force is put on your foot.

• As for those shoes that don't support your feet, save them for when you're going to dress up.

posted by Cheryl Levesque @ 3:51 PM 0 comments

Golden days: Making sense of the season's hair and beauty trends

Joanne Sasvari

CanWest News Service

Tuesday, July 18, 2006

CALGARY -- In summer, when it comes to beauty, we tend to get relaxed about things. Hair is worn sun bleached and just-out-of-bed tousled. Makeup is minimal. Our beauty routine focuses on sunscreen and pedicures.

Of course, stylish women know that getting an easy, breezy summertime look is anything but easy or breezy.

Summer brings its own beauty challenges -- sun, heat and wind outdoors and dry, Arctic cold air conditioning indoors. Not only do we have to put more effort into protecting our hair and skin from the elements, we have to put more effort into looking good despite those elements.

This year is an especially challenging one. There are so many fashion trends right now, it's hard to know exactly what is fashionable -- until we get it wrong.

"In fashion, we're seeing such a broad range, with renditions of the '60s and '70s and '80s, even punk," says Ashley Harrison, artistic director for EvelineCharles Salons and Spas.

The same thing is happening in hair and beauty, he says: "Everything coincides -- fashion to hair to beauty."

So, we wondered, just how can we look cool when it's hot out this year? For the answer, we turned to the pros at EvelineCharles Salons and Spas.

- - -
- SKIN CARE
With more skin on display in summer, we have to work harder at keeping it smooth and moisturized, says EC spa director Cherie Van Buskirk.

"There are so many outdoor activities that can dry out the skin, dry out the hair," says Van Buskirk.

"The sun is drying. Even if you use an SPF -- and I hope everyone does -- the sun is still drying. Dehydrating the skin can also increase oil production and cause blemishes."

After being in the sun, she says, always cleanse, tone and apply a hydrating mask to rehydrate and plump the skin from a long day.

Then use a moisturizer, making sure you choose a lighter one in summer than winter.

She recommends exfoliating your entire body once a week, paying special attention to the bikini line.

And, yes, she suggests waxing, not shaving, the bikini area.

Also, Van Buskirk notes, it's especially important to take care of your feet in summer, when women tend to wear a lot of open-toed shoes.

"Your heels get dried and can get cracked. Your cuticles get exposed to the elements, too," she says.

She recommends using a moisturizing product that also includes an antibacterial agent, such as tea tree oil. And definitely get a pedicure.

Just as in makeup and fashion, the hot colours in nail lacquer this season are pinks and bronzes.
Bronze is also big for skin, whether it's in the form of bronzers brushed on cheeks, shoulders and decolletage, or sunless tanners that mimic a tan without the sun's damaging rays.

If you decide to try our hand at creating your own faux tan, the most important tip is to make sure to exfoliate first.

It not only makes the tan more even, but extends its longevity.

- - -
- HAIR
This season there are two strong and very different, trends in hair: short, modern and gamine, or long, soft and curly.

"We're finally starting to see short hair coming back," Harrison says happily.

The trend is largely inspired by a batch of newly cropped young stars -- Sienna Miller, Natalie Portman, Keira Knightley. And, Harrison says, "We will definitely see it into the fall."

Although short cuts and bobs have been in style before, what makes this look different is a softness and texture achieved by "disconnection."

"When we say disconnected, we're not talking undercut. It's almost a shorter version underneath, with longer layers over it," he explains.

"The look is not as blunt as it used to be," Van Buskirk adds.

The season's other big look is what Harrison calls "soft feminine," which involves gently tousled random curls.

With hair colour, again, there are two strong trends: rich, solid tones in reds and browns; and blonds, which are always popular in summer.

- - -
- MAKEUP
When it comes to makeup, the most important thing to do, says Van Buskirk, is to keep it fresh. And one of the easiest ways to do that is with a bit of bronzer.

"It's a great way to give a hint or a glow to the skin without doing all the damage," she says, adding that bronzers can also even out your skin tone when, say, your nose gets darker than the rest of your face.

Other than that, there are three big trends in cosmetics this season.

One, involves using gold and metallics primarily on the eye area.

"It can be a darker metallic followed by a lighter lip. And a hint of bronzer on the skin, of course," Van Buskirk says.

The second, is a pale face, minimal eye makeup and really red lip, which could also be a really pink lip, or a really orange lip.

The key, says EC makeup artist Cheri Romanow, is "making the lip the focal point."

The third look is a soft and natural look that Van Buskirk describes as a " '70s tawny cast, but with '90s overtones. Not as heavy and harsh."

Also look for the return of the natural brow. Eyebrows are becoming healthier, fuller and not as defined as they have been in recent seasons.

As for what not to do, Van Buskirk notes the biggest mistake you can make this season is focusing on every aspect of the face instead of emphasizing either a dramatic eye or a vibrant lip.

To highlight both would be too old, too '80s. And even though the '80s are back in style, the point isn't to recreate that decade of excess, but to use it for inspiration.

Or, as Harrison says, "We always take what was in the past, and add in the future."

EvelineCharles Salons & Spas are located in Vancouver, Edmonton and Calgary.

Calgary Herald

posted by Cheryl Levesque @ 1:44 PM 0 comments

Oral treatment is pain-free remedy for hair loss problem

The adage "beauty is only skin deep" may be true, but for many balding men this may not be the reality.

For many, beauty still lies in the eye of the beholder, as revealed in a survey conducted in five European countries (France, Germany, Italy, Spain, and Sweden) among women aged 20-39 years representing approximately 35 million women.

According to the study, it was shown that a man’s character and personality may not be enough to attract a woman. Sixty-one percent of the women said balding men tend to look older than they really are, while 71 percent of the women believe that hair plays an important part in a man’s overall appearance.

In the survey, some of the women commented that, "Hair is often the first thing that catches my eye. Only then do I look at the face and the rest." While others claimed that, "Nice hair is a sign of youth and health. A shaved head may create a certain style, but a balding man seems older."

However, good grooming and a stylish haircut may not be the solution for many men, particularly for balding men with male pattern hair loss (MPHL).

Male Pattern Hair Loss, also known as androgenetic alopecia, is a common hair loss problem that is both genetic and hormonal in nature.
It is also a progressive condition, which means it usually gets worse over time if left untreated. However, with proper and prompt treatment, further hair loss can be averted.
Today, there are various treatment options available for MPHL which include oral pills, topical solutions (minoxidil), and surgical procedures.

For those who prefer a pain-free and less messy approach to hair loss treatment, oral pills would be the best choice. Finasteride is the first and only U.S. FDA-approved hair loss oral pill and is currently available in the Philippines.

This finasteride is a safe, effective and convenient oral treatment that has been proven to treat male pattern hair loss on the vertex (top of head) and anterior mid-scalp area (middle front of head) in men.

In the longest reported controlled clinical study of men with certain types of male pattern hair loss, two out of three men who used finasteride regrew hair, as measured by actual hair counts over time.

This treatment, however, is for men only.

The earlier survey also revealed that the women have very positive attitudes toward hair loss treatment and would encourage men to give it a try (79 percent), while 44 percent of the women would prefer that a man try treatment before resigning himself to hair loss.

If one starts to see signs of baldness, such as a receding hairline and/or slow balding at the crown, it would be good to consult a dermatologist and find out more about effective and convenient hair loss treatment.

This information is given by PROHair, an advocacy program developed by pharmaceutical company Merck Sharp & Dohme (MSD) and the Philippine Dermatological Association (PDS) to manage and treat MPHL among Filipino men.

posted by Cheryl Levesque @ 2:21 PM 0 comments

Beauty: It's Hair today, gone tomorrow

By Sinead McCavana

Victoria Beckham wouldn't leave home without them, Jennifer Ellison is a dedicated fan and Jessica Simpson swears by them.

Hair extensions are the celebrity must-have fashion accessory.

However, the permanent type can be pricey and require some TLC.

But now Ulster girls can achieve the high glamour look at a fraction of the cost.

Clip-in real hair extensions are the hassle-free way to achieve a sexy summer look, according to senior stylist Lynn Lasson.

I went along to Stephen Mateer Hairdressing on North Street in Belfast to find out what all the fuss was about.

"They're so easy to use, you can clip them in for a night out, curl them, straighten them or even put them up in a ponytail," said Lynn.

"With permanent bonded extensions you need to use a special shampoo and be careful not to pull them.

"But the clip-ins are so hassle-free. Just pop them in and out."

The extensions come in easy to use 'wefts'.

The number of wefts needed depends on the thickness of your hair.

"Some people can get away with using just one, but most need two, or if your hair's very fine, three," said Lynn.

"The extensions can also make thin hair appear thicker and they can be cut to suit your style.
"The wefts are available in lots of colours, so you can add them in to give more depth to your natural hair."

It took just a few minutes to attach two wefts, each costing £17, but the difference was dramatic.

Lynn then curled all the hair, bringing my usually drab frizzy locks bang up-to-date.

The extensions are also ideal for holidays when hair becomes dry and unmanageable.

One of the most popular styles at the moment is loose curls plaited to the side.

"This look is great for weddings or a night out," said Lynn.

"Side ponytails are very 'in' this summer, too.

"The extensions can transform a very short ponytail into something more feminine.

"Just be sure to have some hair below the weft so that when you put up your ponytail you can't see the clips."

Stephen Mateer Hairdressing can be contacted on 028 9043 4388.

posted by Cheryl Levesque @ 6:02 PM 0 comments

Friday's column: Sometimes, it's mom's health vs. baby's

Right from the start, we should have known something was wrong. But the study, published in the Journal of the American Medical Association last February, came as such a breath of fresh air that we didn't dare question it. Still, when an influential group of doctors bucked current baby-centric trends to suggest that the benefits of keeping depressed women on their medication during pregnancy might outweigh any potential risks to their unborn children, we should have noted just how remarkable it was.

Instead, we thought it was just a much-needed return to something resembling common sense: the notion that a woman's health rightly comes first in most circumstances, since, ultimately, it is her well-being that will help her baby thrive.

That all seems laughably naive now, in light of revelations first circulated on the Internet and extensively reported in Thursday's Wall Street Journal, that most of the study's 13 authors had financial relationships to the drug companies that manufacture the very antidepressants they were evaluating.

We should have known.

It's different when it's you.

As it turns out, there are an awful lot of things that we should know, but don't, about how to manage health risks during pregnancy. It is incredibly difficult to conduct a serious clinical trial -- the kind of study that typically yields the most clear, definitive results -- involving pregnant women because of the ethical and liability issues associated with exposing their babies to any sort of potential risk, whether it's from eating a certain food or taking a particular medicine.
So, at the moment, the prevailing American philosophy is that if it seems there might be any risk at all, it's better just to avoid the prospect entirely.

Like many women, I've rather sheepishly gone along with this, dutifully abstaining from all sorts of theoretical hazards.

In principle, this really bothers me -- I am the adult here, after all, and I do have a reasonable amount of common sense -- but, in practice, I find that a previously undiscovered conservative streak has come to dominate my psyche. If something should go horribly wrong with my child, do I really want to spend time asking myself if that fabulous meal at Sushi Samba might have been to blame?

There is, of course, a school of thought that says this is excellent preparation for motherhood, that I should be practicing the whole not-about-me-anymore way of life.

But there's also something a bit more complicated going on. The whole idea of pregnancy has changed radically. Rather than being a fairly routine part of adulthood, it is now (for those of us not in our teens, anyway) celebrated as an accomplishment, revered as something utterly sacred.

And while nobody really wants to go back to the ridiculousness of the bad old days, when you couldn't even say "pregnant" on TV, this obsessive celebration of gestation has some downsides, too.Early bonding has its price.

It begins with the now-standard early ultrasound, in which technology gives women an in-utero glimpse of the fetus they're carrying at a phase when, a couple generations ago, many women didn't even yet realize they were pregnant. This moving image packs an unbelievable emotional wallop, even for the most committedly pro-choice among us.

And, on through pregnancy, nearly every test, instruction and checkup emphasizes the unborn baby as a person separate from its mother, with interests that are not always shared and that are sometimes, as in the case of antidepressants, in direct conflict.

Once the baby's sex is established -- as it almost always is, these days, several months before birth -- the parents-to-be are routinely asked for the baby's name. Attributes of personality -- active, excitable, night-owlish -- are bestowed on kids before they ever enter the world.

When things are going well, this is fun and charming. But when things go bad, always-painful dilemmas are now doubly complicated, with new and complex emotions subtly tipping the scales toward ever-increasing levels of expected maternal sacrifice. Your own mental health is just a concept, but your baby has a face and a name.Research or marketing ploy?

The JAMA researchers say their ties to the big pharmaceutical companies had no influence on their study, which was funded by the government, not by private industry. They argue, essentially, that it's pretty much impossible to find any expert in their field who hasn't taken a speaking, consulting or research fee from a drug maker, so we all should just take their word that they weren't compromised.

It's impossible to know, of course. Which puts us right back to where we started.

We're looking for straight answers, for an objective assessment of risks over benefits. Instead, we get politics and marketing and who knows what else.

It's enough to make you long for the days when a pregnant woman could smoke a cigarette and grab a cocktail to soothe her nerves.

posted by Cheryl Levesque @ 5:31 PM 0 comments

Lavender wafts into kitchen

Herb long popular in beauty items soothes its way into consumables from martinis to scones, stews

Jane Snow
Beacon Journal

Fields of lavender unfold downhill from Jody Byrne's white farm house, dwindling in the distance into two ribbons that lead to a picturesque pond.

On Sunday, the hot summer sun coaxed a few lavender buds to open and waft their heady perfume over the crowds. To Byrne's astonishment, more than 1,000 people visited the farm last weekend to revel in this bit of French Provence in, improbably, in Northeast Ohio.

``I never dreamed... '' she said, shaking her head as another load of passengers debarked from a shuttle bus that delivered them from the Wal-Mart a mile away.

Byrne had hoped to lure 200 to 300 people to the first Ohio Lavender Festival in Streetsboro. But she hadn't factored in the strangely hypnotic power of the herb.

``Lavender is more of a culture than a plant,'' Byrne said. ``There's not a culture built up around oregano.''

Byrne and her husband, Michael Slyker, sold out of homemade lavender jelly on Saturday, the second day of the three-day festival. By 2 p.m. Sunday, six chocolate lavender tortes had been reduced to crumbs, the dozens of fresh goat cheese and lavender jelly sandwiches on rosemary focaccia were gone, and the lavender-infused lemonade was running low.

The most popular product Byrne and Slyker make from their harvest is lavender soap, but their food products aren't far behind. Lavender, long a popular fragrance in beauty products, has been steadily gaining fans in the kitchen. It is the herb of the moment among the culinary cognescenti, showing up in everything from martinis to cheese dips.

``The lavender really pops in this scone,'' said one taster Sunday at the first annual Ohio Lavender Cook Off. ``It's a really good use of it.''

The luscious Lemon-Lavender Blueberry Scones earned first place and a $200 DayBreak gift certificate for Monica Wagner of Moreland Hills. She and her mother, Bev Pockar of Chagrin Falls, both placed in the contest. Pockar's surprisingly good spice rub of cumin, lavender, thyme and pepper was a runner-up, as was the headily perfumed nut bread entered by Malka Finsel of Somerset in Perry County, southwest of Columbus.

Wagner began cooking with lavender after a trip to southern France, where fields of the bluish-purple herb alternate with fields of yellow mustard.

``My husband and I honeymooned in Provence 13 years ago and I was so impressed that we created our own little Provence at home,'' Wagner said. ``My front walkway is lined with Munstead lavender, which the bees love and we use in sachets, salads, cooking and baking.''
Byrne and Slyker grow 13 varieties of lavender, including Munstead and -- her favorite for use in cooking -- Provence. Any lavender is edible, though, Byrne said. The couple picks the buds when they are one-third open and loaded with essential oils. They turn the harvest into lavender-infused honey, lavender sugar, lavender teas, lavender jelly and lavender tea cake and dark chocolate torte mixes.

A small selection of items is sold in Heinen's stores and a few boutiques scattered throughout Northeast Ohio. The full line is available through the Internet at www.daybreaklavenderfarm.com.

Both fresh and dried lavender buds may be used in cooking. Fresh has the most pronounced flavor, and should be picked as close to the time of use as possible, Byrne said. In addition to lavender products, Byrne also sells dried buds for use in cooking.

Those who know lavender as a fragrance worn by a grandmother or aunt will be surprised at how versatile it is as a flavor. It pairs well with mint and chocolate, and can be used in everything from desserts to stews. It can't be used with abandon, though.

``Lavender is difficult to cook with because if you underdo it, you won't taste it and if you overdo it, it tastes like medicine,'' Byrne said.

Byrne likes to dip the dried stems in an egg white beaten with a bit of water, roll them in sugar and dry them for use as stir sticks for tea. One of her employees, Jinx Jenkins, likes to cook with lavender sugar and infusions. She has figured out how to intensify the flavor of lavender sugar by combining a half-cup of dried buds with 6 cups of sugar in a food processor and pulsing for three to four minutes.

``It's very intense in flavor because you've broken up the lavender and it has released its oil,'' she said.

Jenkins uses the sugar in lemonade she makes in a coffee maker. For the ultimate lavender lemonade, she said, grind a quarter-cup dried lavender buds in a clean coffee mill reserved for the purpose. Place in the filter basket of a clean coffee maker and run 12 cups of water through the appliance. When the lavender-infused water cools, stir in the juice of 6 to 10 lemons and 1 cup lavender sugar. Add enough additional water to make a gallon of lemonade.

A glass of icy lavender lemonade and a plate of Wagner's scones would be the perfect combination on a hot summer day, Byrne mused Sunday as she reached for a scone and sank into the lavender-colored cushions of a white settee on her screened-in sleeping porch, in sniffing distance of the lavender fields.

``Everything you make with lavender somehow makes you slow down and enjoy life,'' she sighed.
LEMON-LAVENDER BLUEBERRY SCONES
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup whole-wheat flour
1
tbsp. baking powder

½
tsp. baking soda

½
tsp. salt

8 tbsp. cold, unsalted butter
1 tbsp. dried lavender blossoms
Grated zest (outer yellow skin) of 1 lemon
1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
2/3
cup buttermilk

½
cup sugar

1
egg

1 cup fresh blueberries
Blend dry ingredients in a large mixing bowl. Cut in butter with a pastry blender or two forks until the mixture resembles bread crumbs. Sprinkle lavender over the mixture.
In another bowl mix lemon zest, lemon juice, buttermilk, sugar and egg. Pour over dry ingredients. Stir with a fork until a soft dough forms. Add blueberries and mix briefly with hands just until dough clings together. Turn onto a floured surface.
Form dough into 2 balls, then flatten with hands into circles, each about ½ inch thick. Cut each circle into 8 wedges. Bake at 375 degrees for 20 to 25 minutes, until light golden brown. Makes 16 scones.

GRANDMA MALKA'S LAVENDERNUT BREAD
2 ½
cups flour

1 cup packed brown sugar
3 ½
tsp. baking powder

3
tbsp. oil

1 ½
cups milk

1
egg

1 cup fresh lavender buds or 1/3 cup dried
1 cup ground walnuts or pecans
1 cup mini chocolate chips
In a large bowl, stir together flour, brown sugar and baking powder. In another bowl, whisk together oil, milk and egg. Blend wet ingredients into dry, stirring until thoroughly incorporated.
Process lavender in a food processor until finely ground. Stir into batter with nuts and chocolate. Pour into two small (7 inches long) greased and floured loaf pans. Bake at 350 degrees for 55 to 60 minutes. Makes 2 loaves.
MIDDLE EASTERN LAVENDER SPICE RUB
2 tsp. dried lavender buds
1 tsp. chopped fresh rosemary
1 tsp. fresh lemon thyme leaves
1 tsp. fresh thyme leaves
2
tsp. kosher salt

1 tsp. finely ground pepper
1
tsp. ground cumin

Combine all ingredients and mix well. Use as a dry rub for poultry or pork prior to baking or grilling.

posted by Cheryl Levesque @ 4:57 PM 0 comments

The beauty of olive oil is put to the test

By D. PARVAZP-

I REPORTER

Ancient Hebrews used olive oil to light their menorahs. Athenians valued it more than water. The Catholic Church uses it in its sacraments.

And you thought it was just for dipping your focaccia into.

Olives and their related products (oil, pulp, leaf extract) have been used as skin treatments for more than 4,000 years. Talk about a classic -- and one that's making a comeback. From drugstores to fancy-schmancy specialty stores, olive-based products for the hair, the face, the hands and the body abound.

Debra Brammer, a naturopathic doctor who teaches botanical medicine at Bastyr University in Kenmore, said she has used olive oil skin-care products herself because "some of the companies do emulsify it (the oil), making it water soluble" and, therefore, less greasy to deal with.

Olive oil's benefits as a topical agent, said Brammer, include "making the skin look softer and feel more pliable."

"It doesn't cause permanent change in the cellular structure,"
she added. Meaning satisfactory results depend upon regular usage.

Olive leaf extract, she said, is another story.

"In India, it is used topically for skin that has acne or is ruddy or red," said Brammer. "It has a local or topical anti-inflammatory action on the skin."

As an anti-inflammatory agent, olive oil can be absorbed through the skin and into the body, which is not a bad thing.

"When you go for a massage, for example, you are probably absorbing some of that oil through your system," said Brammer. However, whatever the olive oil or extracts are diluted with is very important. Too much witch hazel or alcohol can counter the effect of the oil by drying the skin. Castor oil, on the other hand, can magnify the grease factor.

Could any beauty product beat the olive's own potent, raw power?

We were intrigued. Four P-I colleagues and I volunteered to test non-edible cosmetic products derived from olive oil against the regular table variety to see how the beauty products measured up.

L'Occitane Olive Water Face Toner ($20)

Some people have told me toner was an excuse for companies to sell moisturizer and, with some exceptions, those people may be on to something. Two seconds after applying L'Occitane Olive Water Face Toner, my skin prickled like a horse's hide with flies on it. Luckily, I had moisturizer.

As a Hispanic woman, I always thought I had oily skin that needed correction. So when I was asked to try swabbing olive oil on my skin, I thought, "Nice, but I'm no Sophia Loren. I'll end up looking like a grease slick."

And I was wrong. The olive oil actually made my skin feel supple and did not produce an oily sheen. The L'Occitane toner, with its first ingredient being water (followed by olive fruit extract), also has such things as fragrance and hydrogenated castor oil and all sorts of things I can't pronounce. Which made me wonder exactly what it was that made my skin feel prickly.

The toner promised it would cleanse and moisturize the skin, and that the olive water was rich in anti-free-radical agents. But I thought, "Skip the packaging, go straight to the olive oil."
Then again, at $20 a bottle I maybe could buy some wine that would make me feel doubly beautiful.

VERDICT: Olive oil

-- Kristen Millares Bolt

The Body Shop Olive Body Scrub ($16.50)

Call me a body-scrub snob, but as a frequent user of homemade versions I'm a little particular about this stuff. I like the scrub to have dual purpose: exfoliating and moisturizing.

The Olive Body Scrub from the Body Shop has "exfoliating crushed walnut shells and crushed olive stones to help reveal brighter and smoother skin," according to the description on the retailer's Web site.

The Olive Body Scrub did do some exfoliating, so my skin felt kind of soft once I got out of the shower, but I found the product too creamy and it took too much effort to rinse it off.

I had better results with a homemade scrub I made with regular brown sugar (C&H) and a couple of tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil from the kitchen cabinet. The DIY scrub does a much better job of exfoliating, plus it left my skin feeling silky smooth and so moisturized that I didn't need to use lotion.

VERDICT: Olive oil

-- Tahirih Brown

Oliviers & Co. Organic Liquid Hand Soap ($15) and Hand Cream ($21)

I have chronically dry hands, the kind that bleed during the winter when I haven't moisturized in a few days. I often forget to moisturize before going to bed and I pay for it in the morning.

I've experimented with all kinds of moisturizers in the past: L'Occitane (takes too long to absorb); Philosophy (effect fades too quickly); Bliss (I even bought the gloves and put the body butter cream underneath but it got too annoying to sleep in and I always threw the gloves off); Dionis (comes on light, absorbs fast, feels like it's nourishing my skin); Dermalogica (OK, but also seems to fade too quickly); Kiehl's (great stuff, but way too expensive for daily use); Lubriderm (greasy); Eucerin (ideal for dry hands but I kinda hate the feel of the greasy layer it leaves); Nivea (greasy); and, finally, olive oil, which is much better smelling than the Oliviers product and feels as if it's moisturizing, but it makes me feel as if I should be sitting on top of a slice of mozzarella with tomato.

Olive oil may be great for cooking, but for hydrating hands, not so much. The Oliviers & Co. Hand Cream comes on strong -- too strong -- leaving a white, globby mess that takes a while to absorb. And once it does, it leaves a sticky film and a slightly pungent odor. Exactly the opposite of what a good hand cream should produce. I couldn't wait to wash it off my hands.

The hand soap, on the other hand, was moisturizing in an inoffensive way. It had a light scent of olive oil, just enough for a pleasant lingering fragrance after it rinsing it off, which did not take long, a good trait for any soap.

VERDICT: Beauty product (partial endorsement)

-- Athima Chansanchai

Uspa Hydration Therapy With Olive Leaf Extract ($32) and Lavender Hand and Body Cream With Olive Leaf Extract ($25)

While some may have their first olives-as-skin-care experience at a spa or in the kitchen, mine was in the hell pit that was childhood bath time. No toys and bubbles for me. Growing up in Tehran, I was the charge of a burly maid named Soghrah, who crushed walnuts in her hands at lunch and carried up two flights of stairs refrigerators strapped to her back. At least thrice weekly, Soghrah would toss me into the tub and scrub me from head to toe and back up with olive soap and a leef -- that's loofah to you -- until I glowed red and hiccupped tearfully for her to please stop. "Tameezam," I would plead. "I'm clean."

So I have avoided non-ingestible olive products all of my adult life, until this little test.
Finding olive leaf extract that's meant for external use was harder than I thought, but I found some in a Vancouver, B.C., health food store. It was diluted in castor oil (another childhood favorite) and after a week of application it didn't seem to do much but moisturize my hands and grease up my face.

The Uspa hand cream, however, softened my hands, and the Hydration Therapy, which I've been pat-patting on my face morning and night, has calmed and evened out my hot, irritated epidermis (I am definitely built for the shade). The stuff soaked right in without a hint of greasiness.

I'll always be thankful for Soghrah's meticulous technique, but this soothing, lavender-scented treatment is far less traumatic.

VERDICT: Beauty product

-- D. Parvaz

Kiehl's Olive Fruit Oil Nourishing Shampoo ($18), Conditioner ($19) and Deeply Reparative Hair Pak ($25)

The X-factor hair type that crowns my noggin has been bestowed upon me by both my African American parents, whose combined ancestors in the "And" and "Other" categories include a French woman, a Choctaw guy and some Scots/Irish people. That means that most products meant for African American hair don't work on my 'fro, but, then again, neither do most of the solutions for the rest of the world, either.

That includes olive oil. I used it a few times in high school when I couldn't afford the VO5 hot-oil treatments (which didn't work on me, either) or when I was sleeping over at one of my friends' houses and forgot my conditioner. She was an Afghan with gorgeous, shiny hair who used to use olive oil religiously and swore it worked.

On me, not really. When I experimented with Trader Joe's brand of extra virgin olive oil, slightly heated, the results were the same as I remembered from way back then: hard to wash out, and left a slick and a not-particularly-conditioning residue on my hair and in my tub. My hair's texture improved slightly when I used about a tablespoon as a leave-in, but it only felt nice when it was still damp. Once my 'fro was dry, my mane became frizzy and brittle again; plus, the oil didn't absorb into the hair cuticle, it just coated the strands until my pillowcase soaked it up at night. Having the oil on my head felt like a low-rent Jheri curl, although my soul was not glowing.

Thus, I had low expectations for the Kiehl's products. But they surprised me. The shampoo cleaned my hair without drying it -- and it actually felt smooth after I rinsed it, which is a rarity. The intensive conditioning pack was wonderful; it works in very little time and left me with a head of soft, defined curls, which is tough to do. Trust me. Less impressive was the daily conditioner, which was too light for my hair and gave me about the same results as I would have gotten by simply washing it. However, I found a use for it: It was great as a leave-in after I towel-dried my hair, and after I used the pack. If these products aren't too expensive, I may buy more to use on special occasions.

VERDICT: Beauty product

-- Melanie McFarland

posted by Cheryl Levesque @ 1:43 PM 0 comments

Gourmet spa

Time for your next cake, sir L'Andana is the only spa in the world where the dessert trolley is a central part of the treatment. Tom Robbins rushed to Italy to check it out

Sunday July 9, 2006The Observer

Long desk-bound months eating cake to get through the afternoons had taken their toll. Muffin-topped and slack-jowled, I wasn't that surprised when my editor began to hint that maybe it was time I headed out to review a health spa.

Where to choose? California's Ashram, with 6am starts and 19-mile hikes; colon-cleansing at The Spa on Koh Samui; or Miami's Pritikin, where alcohol, caffeine, dairy and sugar are banned? Unappetising prospects all. But then I discovered there is another way: a new spa experience that promises to be far more my cup of tea.

The moment the porter closes the bedroom door behind him it's clear I've come to the right place. There, calling from the table, is a selection of biscuits, just in case you are a little peckish from the journey. Not the usual twin-pack of plastic-wrapped digestives, but soft-centred mini-macaroons, home-made sugar-dipped shortbread, chocolate biscotti and many, many more. Fabulous in themselves, but just a hint of the delights to come.

For this is L'Andana in Tuscany, probably the only spa in the world where the reception area features two menus: one for treatments, body wraps, scrubs, facials and the like; the other for tea and cakes. While many spas take guidance from ayurvedic gurus and other such ascetics, L'Andana's regime is designed in consultation with a pastry chef.

All this is less surprising when you learn that the spa, or 'beauty farm' as it calls itself, is the latest venture of Alain Ducasse, who, on the basis of Michelin-star tallies, is the world's number one chef. So far he boasts 13, garnered from 27 restaurants from Paris to Monaco and Las Vegas. The Frenchman's empire also runs to bakeries, hotels and cookery schools, but the gourmet spa at L'Andana is his first, opening last month.

'While being groomed with natural products - marjoram, sage, thyme, basil and lavender - you can savour delicate pastries,' says Ducasse. 'Being pampered, feeling relaxed and at the same time being offered some gourmet food: that's a true bliss.'

The high concept is that each spa procedure is matched to a particular cake, mousse or tart and a freshly made herbal tea, which work together to complement the spa treatment. So, for example, a soya milk pannacotta with seasonal fruits is recommended after an intensive facial, while a 'life-saving back massage' should be followed by a bitter chocolate mousse. Ingredients for the teas (rosemary, lemon, fennel flower, elderberry and sage) and the cakes are picked from the surrounding gardens. Which food goes with which treatment was thrashed out at a summit between Ducasse, his patissier Nicolas Berger, and experts from British spa designer Espa.

Quite how this beneficial interface between food and treatment is meant to work seems to have been lost in the murky world of spa science. 'Active ingredients have been carefully selected to excite the palate and complement the sensory journey,' says the literature, which sounds wonderful until you wonder what it actually means. Maybe there's a language barrier, but everyone at the hotel seems similarly vague.

I signed up for a holistic back, face and scalp massage with hot stones, for which Elisa, my therapist, prescribed a thin lavender tart and an infusion of camomile and wild rose. Lavender aromatherapy oils would be used in the treatment, she said (so there was a tenuous link) and the 'very strong' smell of the freshly made infusion would aid relaxation.

Anyway, when Elisa has finished an hour or so of kneading my back with hot volcanic stones, 'stimulating and balancing vital energy points', before giving me an Oriental head massage 'to calm the spirit and ease facial tension', I am led to a poolside lounger, where cake is placed in one hand, cup in the other. It feels supremely relaxing: the tart is tasty and the tea is packed with fresh flowers and leaves. But let's not get carried away. Only in the parallel universe of PR could tea, cakes and a nice sit down be called a 'fusion of exceptional cuisine and outstanding spa innovation'.

And yet, while the gourmet spa concept may have a whiff of gimmickry, staying at L'Andana is a genuinely unique experience. The hotel, which opened two years before the spa, occupies the former hunting lodge of Leopold II of Tuscany, a square pink building perched on a knoll and reached along a dusty kilometre-long drive shaded by alternate cypress and umbrella pines, whose green stands out against the yellow cornfields. The grounds extend for 500 hectares - all lawns, gardens, pine-covered hills, olive groves and vineyards - which will produce the hotel's own wine for the first time in September. Rooms are suitably palatial, with antique furniture, Italian linen sheets, oak floors and gilded mirrors. Push back the lavish taffeta curtains, throw open the shutters, and you have sensational views over the gardens and fields to the sea in the far distance. The newer annexe inevitably has less character, but makes up for it with giant baths (one five metres long, which takes two hours to fill).

But really, the hotel is all about food. Evening brings a bedside tray of warm-from-the-oven rose-flavoured marshmallows. A beer taken on a stone bench in the garden comes with a unasked-for bowl of the estate's olives, as big as golf balls. Breakfast is served as a buffet on the huge wooden table in the lodge's old kitchen, so you can return countless times to the trays of custard-filled doughnuts, milky brioche with peach, mini pains au chocolat, sticky apricot jam cake, yoghurt plum cake, hams, cheeses, omelettes and bacon. I think there might have been some cereal too.

Of course the main event is supper. The restaurant is in an old farm building a short stroll away through the dusky lavender- and rose-perfumed gardens.

Barely had I started sipping the sparkling aperitif when the nibbles started arriving - long strips of flat paper-thin bread ready to be daubed with a sweet nutty paste, followed by herb-marinated tripe with pine nuts and wild lettuce. Next came the highlight: gorgeous taccole pasta with baby cuttlefish - black, chewy and delicious.

With the benefit of hindsight, the suckling pig was probably a mistake. After the day's gastronomic workout, I probably should have stuck to fish, but the pork was melt-in-the-mouth tender, the crackling copious and the baked apples sweet. Only near the end of the meal did I realise that, in the shadowy candlelight, I had long finished the pork and the wondrously soft, almost white, forkfuls I'd been devouring thereafter were pure fat. The waiter offered brandy, but I really needed a digestif shot of Fairy Liquid. I began to fret that I might have strayed off my editor's brief a little.

Next morning Maurizio Romani, the hotel manager, was understanding. 'You don't come here to lose weight,' he said (a trifle unnecessarily). 'The idea is that it's a food experience, to indulge and spoil yourself, relax and de-stress.'
Wise words, I decided, as the taxi bumpe

d back down the long drive. I may have gained four pounds, but I'd never felt better.

Essentials
Abercrombie & Kent (08450 700612; www.abercrombiekent.co.uk) offers two nights at L'Andana from £585pp, inclusive of international flights, car hire, and bed and breakfast accommodation.

posted by Cheryl Levesque @ 1:50 PM 0 comments

Vox Populi: 'True beauty lies within'

HindustanTimes.comNew Delhi, July 15, 2006

'Beauty lies in the eye of the beholder. Therefore, it is a subjective thing. Any attempt to judge beauty would be an exercise in futility. So it is improper to commodify it through pageants held all over the world.'

This was the message that rang out loud and clear from the response to our survey on Beauty Pageants.

Never has a verdict been so unanimous. All the 222 surfers who responded from the world over decried the glittering pageants that claim to discover beauty with a purpose.

The first question we asked was whether beauty pageants were a sham. A whopping 135 people were sure they were. 66 people were undecided and said they looked genuine, but then one never knows. Only a meagre 19 people said the contests were genuine.

The second question was an eye-opener. We wanted to know how many of our surfers would actually participate in a beauty contest given the chance. Our assumption was that a great many of them would jump at the chance. But 142 respondents said they did not want to be items on display.

Far behind were the 46 people who said they would think about it when the need arises. Only 33 people were keen on the idea of contesting in these pageants.

The responses to Question 3 were again unanimous. And surprising. As many as 116 people opined that the participants of these much-hyped contests are not so beautiful after all. 68 surfers said they often wonder why better people could not have been chosen.

While it was only a minority ( 37), which said the girls, were beautiful. Maybe, pageant organisers could take a leaf out of this survey!

Our fourth query was whether such pageants were in tune with Indian sensibilities. Here again, a majority of the surfers (121 of them) said such contests focussed too much on physical beauty and so could not fit in comfortably to the Indian culture.

Fifty-two people said modern India is a blend of the East and the West and so they were now a part the ethos. Only 48 said it's time India tuned into changing trends. Reflecting probably, the fact that beauty pageants are not positively viewed at all.

The fifth question quizzed our surfers on what exactly was ideal beauty. Interestingly, 156 of the 222 respondents were of the opinion that a blend of good looks and intelligence would be the way to go. Forty-six people said intelligence was the only criterion , while 22 people actually said that long legs and a trim waist was their notion of ideal beauty.

Our last and final question wanted to assess the importance of beauty and brains in a person's life. Here again, most people (141) preferred a blend of the two. As many as 59 people vouched for brains over beauty and only 21 said beauty alone counts.

An interesting thing we noticed was that our surfers were all very emotive about the issue. They had lots to say and were vexed about the fact that beauty had to be flaunted in order to be recognized.

Take for instance, a surfer called Farhanaz Dastur from Nigeria who was vocal about how true beauty should be measured.

She said: "It is disgusting to see women being itemized like this. Honestly speaking, beauty pageants are marketplaces where the best commodity is sold off. And it is sad to see so many women desperately waiting to parade naked before the world, only to be termed beautiful.

"True beauty cannot be judged in a matter of hours. It is a process of evolution and the most beautiful person is the one who has emerged wise and mature from the tragedies of life. It is not a two hour extravaganza. We are in fact vulgarising the whole concept of beauty with such contests."

Romita Pawar from Ottawa had the same thing to say: "When is a true beauty contest going to be held? I mean, one where character, wisdom and honesty are judged, instead of how fit you look in a bikini. For God's sake, let's grow up! Who are these pageant organisers trying to fool? They think we'll be taken in if they allow us to vote for our favourite contestant. We know this, and still we vote, just for the heck of it. All these things are pre-decided and the glittering ceremony is just eyewash."

Ritika Aggarwal from Delhi had an interesting view: "Why do we associate beauty with a trim figure and a starved look? I mean, when has that become a yardstick for measuring beauty? True beauty is a state of mind. When you possess a beautiful mind, it naturally radiates on your external demeanour. So, I don't think the present system of judging a contest is genuine."

Perhaps the most telling quote came from Ravi Shanker of Bahrain, UAE: "Beauty contests are sick. They lack logic, and defy all codes of decency and morality. At the same time, they degrade women and denigrate the concept of beauty. So, it is a national waste."

There were a few surfers who said India had more serious issues to deal with. Like, for instance, Dinu Maken from Athens said: "there are so many serious issues facing the world today. But we spend time promoting trivialities like beauty pageants. It is time we wake up and do something for the welfare of mankind. Rather than commodifying beauty, it is time for us to wake up and be responsive to the world around us."

Agreeing with her was Arun Singhania from Vancouver. He said: "Beauty with a purpose is nothing but eyewash! How many of these so called beauty queens actually carry on with social work and charity activities once they win the crown? As far as I know, most of them get into the sleazy world of Bollywood. So, we the spectators are the fools here! Let's get real, everyone!

The recent tragedy of the Mumbai blasts made the surfers wonder how India could have become so frivolous as to promote beauty pageants. Nivedita Maran from Chennai was emotional when she said: "The emperor's fiddling when Rome burns! Everyone is trying to come to terms with the Mumbai blasts tragedy and here we are, trying to find out the most beautiful woman in the world. Shame on us if we are so callous!"

The best response, perhaps, came from a surfer called K Srinivas who wrote in from Mumbai. This is what he said: "Beauty Pageants are basically meant to enhance sales of the beauty product manufacturers. Why else would they sponsor it if there were no vested interest in it? Wearing bikinis to display physical beauty is not required. Physical beauty is not permanent, but the beauty of the soul is permanent.

A woman is beautiful not just because she has a pretty face or a great body, but because she has greater endurance and capacity to sacrifice. Throughout her life a woman performs beautiful tasks of a sister, a wife, a mother, etc and keeps becoming more and more beautiful by ungrudgingly performing her duties and caring for everyone. This is the true beauty of a woman which no pageant can measure and award."

What more can we say?

Vox Populi would like to thank its surfers for their discerning responses. We will be back with another important issue next week and hope you will respond with enthusiasm. Till then, keep surfing!

posted by Cheryl Levesque @ 9:09 AM 0 comments

Dangerous beauty

Sandhya Menon

Sunday, July 09, 2006 17:18 IST

Think hair colour is cool and that little mole on your lip sexy? Well, think again! The most innocent things could lead to the big C.

Scare: HighlightsResearchers at Catalan Institute of Oncology in Barcelona found an overall 19 percent increased risk of lymphoma among people who reported colouring their hair.

Doc speak: “Colourists say colour is being applied away from the roots but hair is semi-permeable, so the colour will travel to the roots,” says trichologist, Dr Apoorva Shah.

Damage control: “If you limit colouring to about 8 to 10 months a year, you should be okay,” says aestheticienne, Dr Jamuna Pai.

Scare: Sun worshippingIndian skin with its high melanin content isn’t a prime candidate for skin cancer. However, a sun block with an SPF 30 is a must while outdoors.

Doc speak: “Unless you are a die-hard tanning fan or spend more than average time in the sun, it’s highly unlikely that you might get skin cancer,” asserts Dr Kohli.

Damage control: Load up on sun block and sunscreen lotions. “If skin cancer does occur, surgical removal is a must,” says Dr Kohli.

Scare: MolesThe reason Cindy Crawford’s moles disappeared overnight was because those little spots could be cancerous.

Doc speak: “Not all moles are cancerous but it’s best to go to a specialist if you suspect anything,” says dermatologist, Dr Malavika Kohli.

Damage control: “If moles increase in size, itch or begin to bleed spontaneously, it’s best to get them surgically removed,” says Dr Kohli while stressing that a mole growing over the years is nothing to worry about.m_sandhya@dnaindia.net

posted by Cheryl Levesque @ 1:46 PM 0 comments

Recognizing, treating dehydration is critical to survival

By Walter Mares, Copper Era

Managing Editor

People who have recently moved to the desert may be captivated by its beauty and grandeur. For those from the northwest or eastern United States ,the desert is as different as different can be. They also need to be aware that for all its grandeur, the desert can be deadly.

Arizona natives, and those who have been here for several years, find little solace - or humor - in the expression that “at least it's a dry heat.” Heat can be dangerous, with or without humidity.

Newcomers and natives or long-timers who fail to use common sense often do not know how to recognize when their bodies are in distress due to heat exposure. They also do not know how to deal with a potentially life-threatening condition.

One of the most critical aspects of surviving in the desert is being properly hydrated. Soda pop is not enough. Drink plenty of water, even if not involved in exercise or outdoor activity. It is especially important for those who work or spend time outdoors to stay hydrated with water or sports drinks that replace electrolytes.

According to many medical experts, the rule of thumb for outdoors types is to avoid becoming thirsty in the first place.

The following is information on dehydration that can be highly useful:

What is dehydration?

Dehydration can be a serious heat-related disease, as well as being a dangerous side effect of diarrhea, vomiting and fever. Children and persons over the age of 60 are particularly susceptible to dehydration.

What causes dehydration?

Under normal conditions, people all lose body water daily through sweat, tears, urine and stool. In a healthy person, this water is replaced by drinking fluids and eating foods that contain water. When a person becomes so sick with fever, diarrhea or vomiting, or if an individual is overexposed to the sun, dehydration occurs. This is caused when the body loses water content and essential body salts such as sodium, potassium, calcium bicarbonate and phosphate.

Occasionally, dehydration can be caused by drugs such as diuretics, which deplete body fluids and electrolytes. Whatever the cause, dehydration should be treated as soon as possible.

What are the symptoms of dehydration?

The following are the most common symptoms of dehydration, although each individual may experience symptoms differently. Symptoms may include:

€ thirst and less-frequent urination

€ dry skin and fatigue

€ light-headedness, dizziness or confusion

€ dry mouth and mucous membranes

€ increased heart rate and breathingIn children, additional symptoms may include:

€ dry mouth and tongue€ no tears when crying

€ no wet diapers for more than three hours

€ sunken abdomen, eyes or cheeks

€ high fever, listlessness, irritability

€ skin that does not flatten when pinched and released

Treatment for dehydration:

If caught early, dehydration can often be treated at home under a physician's guidance. In children, directions for giving food and fluids will differ according to the cause of the dehydration, so it is important to consult your pediatrician.

In cases of mild dehydration, simple rehydration is recommended by drinking fluids. Many sports drinks on the market effectively restore body fluids, electrolytes and salt balance.

For moderate dehydration intravenous fluids may be required, although if caught early enough, simple re-hydration may be effective. Cases of serious dehydration should be treated as a medical emergency, and hospitalization, along with intravenous fluids, is necessary. Immediate action should be taken.

To prevent dehydration:

€ Drink plenty of fluids, especially when working or playing in the sun.€ Make sure you are taking in more fluid than you are losing.

€ Try to schedule physical outdoor activities for the cooler parts of the day.

€ Drink appropriate sports drinks to help maintain electrolyte balance.

€ For infants and young children, solutions like Pedialyte will help maintain electrolyte balance during illness or heat exposure. Do not try to make fluid and salt solutions at home for children.

Those who think they may be suffering from sunstroke or heatstroke should seek immediate medical attention. Call Gila Health Resources emergency room at 865-9184. If a person is obviously ill after exposure to the sun or has been in a hot indoor setting, call 911.

posted by Cheryl Levesque @ 2:10 PM 0 comments

Beauty pros help in cancer fight

Local program has survivors feeling better

ENDWELL -- Getting over breast cancer 4 1/2 years ago required a lumpectomy, 37 shots of radiation and four rounds of chemo.

But Elsie Torres, 54, says she knew in her heart she'd be okay in the end.

In the meantime, though, she was bald, and she'd look in the mirror and despair: Would cancer leave its devastating marks on her sallow face and hairless head forever?

Then she visited the Look Good, Feel Better program, run by the American Cancer Society.
According to www.cancer.org, the aptly named program is a community-based, free, national service that teaches female cancer patients beauty techniques to help restore their appearance and self-image during chemotherapy and radiation treatments.

"After I had cancer, I went in for training," says Torres, 54. "I had a feeling I could make women feel better, and I did."

A licensed hairdresser, Torres is now a program facilitator.

There's a new session starting July 19, says Jan Chytilo of the local ACS, and she's got room for more women who are dealing with cancer.

As the site explains, volunteer beauty professionals lead small groups, usually consisting of six to 10 women, through practical, hands-on experience. Women learn about makeup techniques, skin care, nail care and options related to hair loss such as wigs, turbans and scarves.
Women who aren't beauty professionals are welcome to help as assistants.

Torres' daughter, 21-year-old Christina, visited one session.

"The ladies were quiet when we first got in there," says Christina, who's studying at Broome Community College for a career in international journalism. "But once the makeup went on their faces, they felt like different people, like they had life in their faces again."

Elsie Torres has developed close relationships with several of the women. Not all made it through their battles with cancer, but Torres has the satisfaction of knowing she was able to affect their lives deeply in their final days.

Kathy Bergin, who owns a beauty salon and wig shop in Binghamton, has volunteered her time and talents in the program for about 17 years. She trains Look Good, Feel Better facilitators throughout the state.

"The first time I went to it, I loved being able to help women deal with the side effects of the treatments they were undergoing," she says. "Showing them how to draw their eyebrows and apply makeup -- this way, when they look in the mirror, they see themselves again."

posted by Cheryl Levesque @ 2:29 PM 0 comments

Choosing a good spa

Some tips to keep in mind before booking your getaway
By Ann HoevelCNN


Monday, July 3, 2006; Posted: 11:52 a.m. EDT (15:52 GMT)

(CNN) -- When that extra piece of chocolate or glass of wine is no longer helping you unwind, you may decide to hit the spa for some professional care and a little "R and R." But how do you choose the right spa, and what do you do once there?

If you've never been to a spa before, the best way to start narrowing down your choices is to start asking questions, according to Hannelore R. Leavy, founder and executive director of the Day Spa Association.

"The first contact the client has with a spa usually is by telephone," said Leavy. "People should not be afraid to tell them that they've never been to a spa, that they're new to this and they need to ask more questions," she said.

"How much do I tip?" "Do I have to take off all my clothes?" and "Will any treatments have an impact on my medication?" are the kind of questions any spa newbie should ask of prospective salons. Answers should come easily from spa owners and receptionists, said Leavy.
"They're very much aware of new customers, new people to the spa services, and they will explain things to the customer. If the spa does not do this, I would recommend the client go to another one," she said.

Walking through the door

Once in a spa, there are some other ways to tell if the place is serious about the spa business.
"If you walk into a spa and you are not greeted with a smile or if you see that the spa is dirty or you don't feel comfortable for any reason, those are excuses to walk out," said Leavy. "The first rule is cleanliness; it's got to be spotlessly clean. The sheets on the massage table or a facial chair need to be changed after every client. If you have any inkling that this is not a clean place, walk."

Another hallmark of a good spa establishment is membership in a national or international spa association.

"Usually they are marked with an accreditation emblem," said Leavy. "It assures that this spa is really serious about what they're doing, serious about their business and has been in business for quite a while or plans to be in business for quite a while."

Massage therapists and aestheticians should also be licensed.

"The consumer needs to be very diligent to make sure that the therapist who is working on them is licensed in their state. Even if the state doesn't have a license -- in the case of massage therapists -- they should have documentation from their school (a reputable one) that they have completed training. They also need to be able to produce certification that they actually are trained in some of the machines they're using, the devices, and the application of certain products," said Leavy.

Your spa experience

Another idea to keep in mind when choosing a spa is what kind of spa experience you're looking for. There's more than just one kind of spa, explains Lynne Walker McNees, president of the International Spa Association.

"A destination spa, historically, has been a minimum of a seven-day visit, and that's where you'll find yourself completely immersed in that spa experience," explained McNees. "A resort spa is going to be where you go for a meeting or for a family vacation and there happens to be a spa on the property and you go and enjoy the spa several times when you're there, but that's not the sole driver of why you're at that event. A day spa is where you go for several hours.... day spas are everywhere now; they're definitely mainstream."

And with more people wanting spa experiences, availability is growing.

"Consumers are driving spa components being added to your health club, your fitness center, your beauty salon, or the hotel where you go for business a lot," said McNees.

Wherever you choose to go, a spa's purpose is to create a stress-free, nurturing environment. The price of your spa treatment usually includes some hospitable extras, like refreshments, robes, sandals and more. The one extra that should raise a red flag to spa-goers is alcohol.

"Wine does not go with spas, and I would stay away from any spa that serves alcohol," said Leavy. "You are doing treatments to the body, you are moving muscles and masses, blood, and you don't know how a client is going to react."

No unpleasant surprises

Spa clients should fill out a form that includes information about health, like what medicines you are taking and what physical conditions you may have. This is important, said Leavy, because some spa treatments can affect some drugs or ailments.

"Some of the skin care products have ingredients that may not be tolerated by certain people who are taking certain medications or have certain medical conditions" like diabetes, high blood pressure and pregnancy, said Leavy. "Even supplements people take can have an adverse reaction to some chemicals in a skin care product."

Spa-goers should also be aware of outcomes of treatments and have realistic expectations.
"When you have your first facial, you're not going to come out looking like a model on the cover of Vogue. Your aesthetician is going to tell you what your skin needs, what some take-home treatments can be and how to take better care of your skin," said McNees. Likewise, she said, massage therapists and aestheticians will advise clients in the best ways to make the effects of their spa treatments last, even ways to continue treatment at home. (Gallery: Bring the spa home)

Dreading tip etiquette?

Whether you choose a 60-minute facial at a day spa or a weeklong rest at a destination spa, one nagging question that might keep you from totally relaxing is how to tip.

"At a resort spa, a lot of times they'll add it on [to the price of service] and let you know it's added on. It takes the pressure off," said McNees.

"In a day spa, it's more typical of going to a hair salon; it's your discretion. The range is anywhere from 10 to 20 percent, 15 being the norm."

posted by Cheryl Levesque @ 1:22 PM 0 comments

SUNSHINE INDUSTRIES RETAIL TOURISM ENTERTAINMENT ADVERTISING REAL ESTATE

The quick beauty fix

Three South Florida women hope their 10 Minute Manicure stores become the 'Starbucks' of nail salons

BY NIALA BOODHOO
nboodhoo@MiamiHerald.com

To many professionals, a well-manicured hand is as essential as a BlackBerry. Three South Florida businesswomen are hoping to capitalize on that trend with a new chain of fast but upscale manicure and pedicure salons.

The three friends hatched their business idea over a vacation seven years ago, realizing they were their own key customers. Plans were waylaid in part by the difficulty of finding financing for a retail company following the Sept. 11, 2001 attacks, but that has since been secured.
The result: The company's first downtown location of the 10 Minute Manicure salon opened two weeks ago across from the Wachovia building in Miami. Another location has been operating at the Cincinnati airport since January.

All stores offer the same services: A 10-minute manicure costs $15, a 15-minute express pedicure costs $20. Traditional services are also available for more money. All the work is done with specially created polishes (that lack the typical nail polish salon smell) and using sterilized equipment that is opened from a package right in front of customers, just like at a dental office.

COSMETICS LINE
The stores also sell a Danish line of cosmetics, GOSH, as well as the store's own nail polish and manicure/pedicure tools.

The three owners want to take a two-pronged approach by opening locations at airports and downtown urban centers.

''Our niche is the person who's willing to pay for the experience and the lifestyle choice,'' said CEO Lorraine O'Neil, who is also a product liability lawyer. ``I think any professional is looking for that type of experience, whether they're in an airport or here in downtown Miami.''

In some ways, the trio used the video rental industry as a model. Added co-founder Karen Janson: ``We wanted passengers and customers to come in and know exactly what you're going to expect.''

The women say their goal isn't to replace a traditional manicure done in a salon -- it's just designed as a stop gap when quick work is needed.

Consumer research shows that the concept certainly targets a key customer: 40 percent more women have manicures today than they did 10 years ago, said America's Research Group Chairman Britt Beemer. ''It's got some real potential,'' he said.

AIRPORTS A KEY MARKET
And targeting busy professionals at airports is also a good market, other analysts say.
One criterion for being a shopper's favorite location is the concept of getting everything done under one roof, said analyst Candace Corlett. People certainly have a lot of time once inside the airport terminal, and with the increasing number of female road warriors, it makes perfect sense, she said.

''The airport can deliver a lot more than mediocre food,'' said Corlett, with WSL Strategic Retail in New York, who added she was herself ''delighted'' with the idea. ``It's a very good use of time rather than drinking coffee and [eating] a Cinnabon.''

At the Cincinnati airport, the store takes up just about 150 square feet of space with three chairs and a small area to sell retail products.

''It's an airport's dream to turn a small space into revenue, and that's what 10 Minute Manicure has done,'' said the airport's Retail Manager David Kellerman, who added he has been ''flooded'' with calls from other airports that can't believe how successful the operations are.

Chief Operating Officer Vivian Jimenez and her partners say they have been surprised at how many male customers they are seeing at the Cincinnati airport location. Locations at John F. Kennedy International Airport in New York and Ronald Reagan National Airport in the Washington D.C. area are set to open soon. Jimenez said the group has also closed on about a dozen other locations and is negotiating on another 20.

100 LOCATIONS

The goal is to have at least 100 locations in the United States and Canada by the end of next year, she said.

''It was important for us to open in our hometown. Our first location was in Cincinnati, but we really wanted to launch our business concept in our backyard, in our downtown,'' Jimenez said.
The financial backing for the venture comes from Canadian real estate developer Triple Five, which has investments in the Mall of the Americas and the West Edmonton Mall, where another 10 Minute Manicure will soon open.

But Corlett, the retail analyst who was delighted with the airport concept, thinks the competitive edge is lost in a downtown urban center like Miami, where nail salons are plentiful.
''You can go into any salon on the street and do a polish change very quickly,'' she said.

posted by Cheryl Levesque @ 1:00 PM 0 comments

Tiny particles in cosmetics ‘a risk’

By Rob Edwards, Environment Editor

HUNDREDS of beauty products could contain a hidden threat to health from millions of potentially toxic nano- particles, claim environmentalists.

A survey found so-called nanomaterials in make-up, anti-wrinkle creams and sunscreens produced by L’Oréal, Estée Lauder, Christian Dior, Chanel and Boots, among others.

Now experts and environmentalists are demanding a ban on nanotechnology – the manipulation of minuscule particles – in skincare products until the risks are assessed. The cosmetic industry, however, maintains its products are safe.

Nanoparticles are usually less than 100 nanometres – 100 billionths of a metre – in diameter. A human hair cell is 80,000 nanometres wide.

Cosmetics companies have rushed to embrace nanomaterials because of their ability to penetrate and improve skin, and to make sunscreens more effective, less visible and easier to apply.

But their use has mushroomed without any specific regulatory overview, despite evidence from some scientific studies that there might be health risks.

A US investigation in 2004 found that carbon nanoparticles known as fullerenes damaged fishes’ brains, killed water fleas and poisoned human liver cells. Yet their presence is advertised in seven face creams made by Zelens, Sircuit, MyChelle, Dr Brandt and Bellapelle.

Friends of the Earth (FoE) found 116 care products internationally, including deodorant, shampoo and toothpaste, that incorporate nanoparticles such as metals, proteins and “novasome” capsules. “Companies should stop treating their customers like guinea pigs and avoid marketing such products until nanomaterials are proven safe,” said FoE Scotland chief executive Duncan McLaren. “ In the past, regulators failed to heed early warning signs on substances like asbestsos and DDT resulting in serious environmental and financial costs. Today, they should be taking a precautionary approach.”

In 2004, a report by the Royal Society in London recommended that nanoparticles should undergo a “full safety assessment” before they were used in consumer products.

FoE’s call for a moratorium was backed by Andrew Watterson, a professor of environmental health at Stirling University. “It would seem remarkably foolish to permit the use of nanomaterials that lab tests have already shown to be of concern,” he said. Some companies had a “gung-ho approach” to nanotechnology and were ignoring warnings in order to boost profits, he added .

L’Oréal, Estée Lauder, Christian Dior and Chanel did not respond to questions last week. Boots scientific adviser Dr Tony Gettins said the titanium dioxide used in Soltan sunscreen was permitted by the European Union and “does not penetrate the skin and does not represent a safety risk to consumers”.

A spokeswoman for the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association said all cosmetic products were subject to stringent testing. “Safety is the number-one priority,” she said. “With millions of consumers using cosmetic products as part of their daily routines, it is essential for our industry to ensure that products are thoroughly assessed for safety,” she added.

posted by Cheryl Levesque @ 1:51 PM 0 comments